Opus One's 30th vintage has arrived this year, and it appears that the only understanding of the wine is that it's an expensive red wine. I've heard many say, "I'd never pay that price for this wine." Then I respond, "Would you pay that price for any wine?" The answer is typically "no."
Opus One began in the late 1970's as a joint venture between Robert Mondavi, a visionary for Napa Valley, and Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a first growth Bordeaux. The goal was to not only create a great red wine, but a Cabernet-based blend that would rival the first growths of France. At the time, there were no ultra-premium wines in California and no such thing as a "cult wine." Yes, there were cults that might enjoy some Napa red, but no boutique wineries that brought on a cult-like following of their wine as you see today.
The fruit that goes into Opus One comes from estate vineyards, including To-Kalon Vineyard, and the best growers in the region. The blend changes every year but the wine is always dominated with Cabernet Sauvignon. As long as the wine includes at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, Opus One can legally put the grape on the label, but that's not the way of the French. But it's still considered a Bordeaux-style blend.
Winemaker Michael Silacci has been at Opus One since the 2001 harvest and keeps a firm attachment to what's happening in the vineyards. He decides the time to pick based on phenolic ripeness (is the grape ripe and developed?), not sugar ripeness (measured in "brix"). The grapes are harvested by-hand overnight while the temperature in the vineyards is cool. Then the grapes are sorted a few times and destemmed by hand.
Opus One is released every year on October 1st, never missing a beat. The wine is sold in 160 countries around the world and always sells out, a reason you'll never see the price go down, which you're now seeing with other ultra-premium wines (i.e. Caymus Special Selection). The 2006 Opus One will release next month at $195.99. Over the next three years, the volume will be reduced by about 20% because the winery replanted and is waiting for the vines to mature. The 2006 vintage is made of fruit cut back to only 1.5 tons per acre, concentrating the wine into a frame that can hold up for a long time to come. Every vintage sees about 16 to 18 months in new French oak.
Yesterday, I had the pleasure of tasting the new 2006 vintage as well as the 2001, with Gina Voci of Opus One. Definitely decant the wine, especially the younger vintages. The 2006 is comprised of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, and 3% Malbec. A dance with all five red Bordeaux varietals. It's actually the lowest amount of Cabernet Sauvignon ever used.
The 2001 was a pleasure, showing a lot of dried fruit and a kiss of oak and dried herb. The 2006 will show off a lot more after it's been decanted or open for a number of hours. This wine is silky, velvety goodness. Layers of fruit and tannin, stacked on top of each other. A hint of leather, both in flavor and texture. Throw in some currant and chocolate and you've got a winner.
Not everybody, especially in the current state of our economy, can spend $196 on a bottle of wine. But if you have $200 for a bottle of wine and can't get your hands on a first growth of Bordeaux (because you'll pay a lot more), you should give Opus One a try. If you're a House Wine customer and want to visit Opus One, I'm happy to assist you with an appointment to tour the winery and experience what is Opus One firsthand.