Winejoy

Local Matters - Local Foods Week

Let's start with some facts.  Did you know that less than 1% of the food grown in Ohio actually stays in Ohio?  That one in three Ohio children are expected to get diabetes in their lifetime?  And the obesity rate among Franklin county preschoolers is almost 20% and among third graders is 45%?  The statistics are astonishing.

While House Wine strives to work with local businesses for a common cause, we like to step outside the shop at times and work with organizations that improve the community in which we work and live.  That's why House Wine has partnered with Local Matters to bring you Local Foods Week, October 3-9.

 

Local Matters is a not-for-profit based in Central Ohio, whose mission is to make local, healthy, sustainably-grown food equally accessible to everyone in our community.  There's a good chance they're in your children's schools today, teaching them about the benefits of healthy foods.  You might find their Veggie Van in Franklinton or Linden, giving lower income families access to locally-grown fruits and vegetables they otherwise can't reach.  Next week, we hope you see partners of Local Matters wherever you go.

 

Traditional farming has been pushed aside by mass production, industrial farming.  When you visit your local grocery store or fast food joint, do you have any idea where the food is from?  Fortunately, many of us today have the ability to visit farmers' stands and markets, buy locally-grown, healthy foods at a reasonable cost, and shake the hand of the farmer who grew it (and support their families as well).  Our food supply chain has been jeopardized and it is organizations like Local Matters that step up to promote local farmers and their products as well as educate us and our children on the benefits of local foods.  If you're not familiar with "local foods," I encourage you to take part in Local Foods Week.  We need to make an effort to change our habits and how we look at our foods before it becomes completely homogenized.

 

The schedule is full of events to promote local foods, which includes dinners, beer & wine tastings, and market events.  House Wine will host a "Local" tasting next Thursday, October 8th, which will include wines from Firelands in Sandusky and Ferrante in Geneva, as well as beers from Thirsty Dog in Akron.  The cost is only $15/person.  Part of the proceeds from this event will be donated to Local Matters.

 

Our neighbor, The Worthington Inn, has a long-standing tradition of sourcing local, sustainable foods.  I invite you to join me at The Worthington Inn for a benefit dinner for Local Matters on Tuesday, October 6th, with a special menu highlighting foods from local farmers.  The dinner is only $40/person and you can call 614-885-2600 for reservations.  If you look at the schedule for Local Foods Week, there are many options for you throughout the week at other partnering locations.  Like House Wine, you can also become one of the 1000 Friends of Local Matters to support Local Matters and maintain its programs.

By attending these events, you're accepting an opportunity to learn more about Local Matters and the food we eat.  In the long term, you're supporting a cause that will greatly benefit your lives as well as your children and future generations.  And don't we need a little more delicious in our lives? 

Opus One - A Napa Valley Red Wine

Opus One's 30th vintage has arrived this year, and it appears that the only understanding of the wine is that it's an expensive red wine.  I've heard many say, "I'd never pay that price for this wine."  Then I respond, "Would you pay that price for any wine?" The answer is typically "no." 

Opus One began in the late 1970's as a joint venture between Robert Mondavi, a visionary for Napa Valley, and Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a first growth Bordeaux.  The goal was to not only create a great red wine, but a Cabernet-based blend that would rival the first growths of France.  At the time, there were no ultra-premium wines in California and no such thing as a "cult wine."  Yes, there were cults that might enjoy some Napa red, but no boutique wineries that brought on a cult-like following of their wine as you see today. 

The fruit that goes into Opus One comes from estate vineyards, including To-Kalon Vineyard, and the best growers in the region.  The blend changes every year but the wine is always dominated with Cabernet Sauvignon.  As long as the wine includes at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, Opus One can legally put the grape on the label, but that's not the way of the French.  But it's still considered a Bordeaux-style blend. 

Winemaker Michael Silacci has been at Opus One since the 2001 harvest and keeps a firm attachment to what's happening in the vineyards.  He decides the time to pick based on phenolic ripeness (is the grape ripe and developed?), not sugar ripeness (measured in "brix").  The grapes are harvested by-hand overnight while the temperature in the vineyards is cool.  Then the grapes are sorted a few times and destemmed by hand.

Opus One is released every year on October 1st, never missing a beat.  The wine is sold in 160 countries around the world and always sells out, a reason you'll never see the price go down, which you're now seeing with other ultra-premium wines (i.e. Caymus Special Selection).  The 2006 Opus One will release next month at $195.99.  Over the next three years, the volume will be reduced by about 20% because the winery replanted and is waiting for the vines to mature.  The 2006 vintage is made of fruit cut back to only 1.5 tons per acre, concentrating the wine into a frame that can hold up for a long time to come.  Every vintage sees about 16 to 18 months in new French oak. 

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of tasting the new 2006 vintage as well as the 2001, with Gina Voci of Opus One.  Definitely decant the wine, especially the younger vintages.  The 2006 is comprised of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, and 3% Malbec.  A dance with all five red Bordeaux varietals.  It's actually the lowest amount of Cabernet Sauvignon ever used. 

The 2001 was a pleasure, showing a lot of dried fruit and a kiss of oak and dried herb.  The 2006 will show off a lot more after it's been decanted or open for a number of hours.  This wine is silky, velvety goodness.  Layers of fruit and tannin, stacked on top of each other.  A hint of leather, both in flavor and texture.  Throw in some currant and chocolate and you've got a winner. 

Not everybody, especially in the current state of our economy, can spend $196 on a bottle of wine.  But if you have $200 for a bottle of wine and can't get your hands on a first growth of Bordeaux (because you'll pay a lot more), you should give Opus One a try.  If you're a House Wine customer and want to visit Opus One, I'm happy to assist you with an appointment to tour the winery and experience what is Opus One firsthand.

Bayou Bloody Mary

Sunday brunch.  Saturday morning tailgate.  Hair of the dog.  When it comes down to it, a Bloody Mary fits many occasions or circumstances.  As for us, we had our Supper Club this past Sunday, and with the "Down on the Bayou" theme, we made an oyster po boy Caesar salad paired with a Bloody Mary.  So, Bayou Bloody is more of the a play on words than anything.

What was different about this Bloody Mary?  We used 20 pounds of heirloom tomatoes from Wayward Seed Farm, which turned out about 12 servings.  Yes, it's some work, but you get a more tangy, fresh experience.  To bring it closer to the salad and theme, we threw in anchovies and extra Tabasco.

Due to time constraints, we skipped some steps that others might follow, like putting the tomatoes in boiling water and removing the skins.  First, we processed the tomatoes through a food mill, which separated the skins, leaving us juice, pulp and seeds in the bowl beneath the food mill.  The larger the food mill, the quicker you'll get through your batch of tomatoes.

 

In batches, strain the juice mixture through a sieve to separate the pulp and seeds from the juice.  The juice came out more red and flavorful than we expected, so we were happy with the pulp-free juice.  Cooking down the tomatoes a bit will incorporate more of the pulp into the juice, or you can simmer the pulp-free juice to thicken it up a bit.  We had to run our hand along the inside of the sieve to keep the seeds and pulp from blocking the juice to run through the sieve and into the second bowl. 

 

Now you have your fresh juice.  Add a splash of fresh lemon juice and salt to taste, and you're set.  And for the Bloody?  If you have about 4 to 5 cups of juice in your blender, throw in one or two anchovies, couple pinches of celery salt, fresh ground black pepper, spoon of horseradish, a few dashes of Tabasco, and Worcestershire, and add to your liking.  Oh yeah, add some vodka.  Pick something that's got a clean flavor but not too expensive.  We went with Smirnoff Silver.  You'll be able to tell if you need more of anything.  Keep the tomato juice and vodka chilled so you don't have to add ice. With some extra lemon juice and celery salt, line the lip of the glass for more flavor and a little decoration.  Enjoy!

The Lefties Have Arrived!

In a few years, Mollydooker (Aussie for "lefty") has become one of the hottest wines in the world and definitely tops the list for Australian wines.  I had the pleasure of meeting Sparky Marquis (on the right, below) today, along with his mother, and marketing director Bryan, while he's in town to talk wine.  He's only talking because the wine has sold itself and there's not much selling to do.  Sparky and his wife Sarah have created a brand and wine that can take care of itself.  In the last couple years, they've become a bit more savvy by selling directly to consumers, so they can keep more of the margin for themselves instead of spreading it across the entire supply stream.  Gotta love capitalism.  This process has made this wine extremely allocated, so you get to know your local wine shop owner or buy a case directly from the winery with shipping costs.

Mollydooker has contracts set up with local growers who are paid to grow high quality fruit, not quantity (anything with a kangaroo on it).  Sparky has created a water management program to push the vines to their limits, which in turn creates better fruit.  He and Sarah then measure the quality of the juice based on the percentage of fruit sensation felt across the palate.  The highest percentages go into the top bottles like Velvet Glove, Carnival of Love, and Enchanted Path.  On the other end with the Lefty Series, there are still strict guidelines for what goes into these bottles.  Unfortunately, heat spikes for the 2008 vintage didn't allow any of the fruit to make the grade to go into the higher-end bottles.  On the flip side, all the great fruit went into the Lefty Series.  As for the grape growers, they get bonuses for fruit that gets the higher marks and ends up in the more expensive bottles.

This wine is extremely limited and it's unfortunate that you won't find it on store shelves (unless someone didn't even try to sell it, and then you're lucky).  If you're one of the few to find some Mollydooker, you're in for a treat with the 2008 vintage.  I look forward to tasting the Mollydookers with Sparky tonight and I'm sure it will bring a left-hand applause by all.

Redtree Pinot Noir California 2008

Looking for a steal?  How about $5.99 Pinot Noir?  When I see Pinot Noir for less than $10-15, I begin to worry because it's a difficult grape to grow and you typically get what you pay for.  The fortunate thing about shopping at House Wine is that we'll take the guess work out of the equation for you and we don't simply stack up a bunch of wine in hopes that you buy it.

I read about this wine in both recent reviews in Bon Appetit and Food & Wine magazines and I was anxious to try it.  Redtree is a line of wines made by Cecchetti Wine Company in California.  After I learned it is only $5.99 for Ohio, I had mixed feelings.  I got around to tasting it last week with Nathan from Glazer's and was pretty impressed.  It's not a fancy, complex Pinot Noir, but it's balanced and juicy.  You can drank it with or without food.  It's unpretentious Pinot Noir, if there's any such thing. 

The Wine Spectator just gave it 88 points.  I think that's a bit too much.  While it's a balanced wine, there's really no complexity in this wine as it has a simple fruit-forward frame.  It could have been given an 80.  Either way, if you like Pinot and looking for a steal, visit us now to get your hands on this wine before it's gone or the price goes up on new arrivals from the winery. 

Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Yes, it's been a few weeks for me as I've been on blog "hiatus."  No block on what to write.  Just a busy time with the business and I also write our shop's newsletter and a column for ThisWeekNews that appears about every two weeks.  I know, no excuses, but I know there's "blog police" out there.  I'll try to keep up.

This weekend, I had several opportunities to enjoy Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($32.99).  This is one of three wines under the label made by Pam Starr.  The wine is a mix of fruit from the cooler Carneros region and warmer valley floor of Napa Valley in St. Helena.  The "dual sourcing" (now I'm getting into Honda lingo) creates some complexities of crisp citrus fruits and more tropical flavors.  I think of it as a complex fruit-driven wine.  The wine retains the perfect amount of thirst-quenching acid, with some body added to the wine because 10% of the wine is put into new French oak barrels for a short time. 

Acid in wine loves acid in food.  Right now, break out some Sauvignon Blancs to pair with the tomatoes that are in season.  We paired this wine over the weekend with two courses.  First, a grilled bruschetta with heirloom cherry tomatoes, basil and balsamic vinegard.  Then we enjoyed the wine with a simple romaine salad with heirloom beets from Wayward Seed and goat cheese with a light, tangy dressing.  Life is good when there's good company, good food, and good wine.

Frog's Leap Revisited

You might see some focus on Frog's Leap when I post because it's my favorite winery for numerous reasons.  Last night, we had the pleasure of pouring these wines with Kylor Williams from Frog's Leap Winery for our 3rd Annual Frog's Leap Tasting.  He joined the winery this year to work alongside his father John Williams, the founder and winemaker. 

We poured the base five wines, which include the Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  I was amazed at how well these wines were showing.  Numerous people who were skeptics with one or two of the wines were delighted after trying a wine out of their comfort zone.  Frog's Leap takes each of these varietals and turns them into an elegant but well-built form of the wine.

The Sauvignon Blanc ($21.99) is bright and crisp, with plenty of fruit character on top of a good amount of acid.  The fruit for the Chardonnay ($26.99) is sourced from Truchard Vineyard, located in the cooler Carneros climate, giving it the balance of light oak, fruit and acid.  The Zinfandel ($29.99) mocks the monstrous California Zins of today, with dried black fruits and a spice note.  The Merlot ($38.99), sourced from the "frog farm" and a nearby vineyard, is Rutherford fruit and earth character clashing into one.  I can't say enough to justify the greatness of the Cabernet Sauvignon ($44.99), a sturdy red to enjoy now or years to come, with a melange of black fruits, damp earth, and subtle tannins.

If you weren't able to attend our tasting last night, we have some signed bottles left over which make a nice additive for your personal wine stash or for a special gift. 

 

 

Campari Bitter

Campari is a staple for Italians whether at home or at the local bar with friends.  In the U.S., you'll probably see it in many bars, but the bottle might be getting dusty.  The aperitif was created by Gaspare Campari in Milan in the mid 19th century.  He opened up a cafe called Camparino and his concoction was used to greet the guests for the big opening. 

My wife Amy and I enjoyed a Tuscan-themed dinner with our supper club last weekend.  While Campari wouldn't be the star, I found it fitting to begin our evening with this appetite wetter.  Course after course, we were satisfied and ready to charge forward until the meal was complete and our bellies.  A little Campari upfront and some limoncello toward the end kept our stomachs strong for gluttony.  The only thing missing was a little grappa at the end to help digestion. 

On its own, Campari Bitter is hard to "throw back" because of the fierce bitterness, so it's custom to cut through it a bit with soda water or orange juice.  Campari is made from a combination of 86 herbs, fruits and spices, put into hot water with sugar and neutral alcohol later added.  Tree bark is one of the main ingredients and rhubarb is an obvious choice.  It's a very versatile liqueur as far as incorporating it into a meal or making a cocktail from it.  Do you have any favorites or memories with Campari? 

Frog's Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Got any bottles that you've put back for a few years and been anxious to open?  I've felt that way about this wine and my wife Amy and I finally broke into one last night.  Fortunately, we have one more to go because we were blown away. 

If you're not familiar with the "frog farm," Frog's Leap was founded in Rutherford by John Williams in the early 1980's.  He implemented organic farming and winemaking practices on top of creating wines of pure beauty and balance.  I recommend you visit the winery (by appointment) the next time you're in Napa Valley, somewhat hidden off the beaten path.  I actually proposed to my wife at Frog's Leap and it offers a picturesque setting.

The reds from Frog's Leap are known to pour well out of the bottle and also age gracefully.  When you get a balance of plush fruit, acidity and some tannins, they can mingle and dance over time.  I was excited to pour this Cab into our big Bordeaux stems last night.  With a swirl, the wine was still quite viscous.  On the nose, I got a bit of barnyard, but after a minute or two, it opened up to ripe blackberry, espresso notes, and tobacco, with more of the plush black fruit on the palate.  You'd think this wine was a new release based on the weight and flavor intensity. 

I encourage you to try the lineup of Frog's Leap yourself.  We welcome Tyler Williams, son of John Williams and new addition at the winery, next Thursday, July 23rd, from 6pm to 9pm.  For only $15, you can't go wrong with attending this event as we bring Napa Valley to House Wine.

Ribbit!

O-H-I-O Wine

Ohio has produced wine for a while and is one of the largest producers in the country with about 100 wineries to date.  Unfortunately, the reputation has not held up against other large producing states like California, Oregon, Washington and even New York and Virginia.  Why the lack of love? 

For Ohio, there's such a diversity in styles and climates. A large number of producers are creating super sweet fruit and flower (yes, even dandelion) wines that cater to a segment of consumers who are only interested in sweet and fruit wines made with everything but grapes and there aren't many other producers sending these wines to Ohio.  On the other end, a small selection of producers have been able to create fine wine in tough conditions.  Very hot summers and cold winters with diverse precipitation and freeze patterns can really screw up a harvest. 

With North Market hosting their annual Food & Wine Festival this weekend, we thought we'd give you a preview of some of the better producers in Ohio.  For this Thursday's tasting, we're pouring a total of six wines from Kinkead Ridge, Firelands and Ferrante.  Kinkead Ridge is located on the Ohio River and focuses on vinifera grapes (the grapes you typically see in table wines).  Firelands and Ferrante are located on the northside of the state where you will find more of the sweet wines, like ice wine, but they've been able to create some very pleasant dry wines. 

The lineup for our tasting includes:

Kinkead Ridge White Revelation

Kinkead Ridge Viognier/Roussanne

Ferrante "Golden Bunches" Riesling

Ferrante Chardonnay

Firelands Pinot Grigio

Firelands Cabernet Sauvignon

We look forward to seeing you this week for our tasting as we continue to support local products, wine and all!